hike Date: 25/26 August 2010
Departure altitude (m): 3275 (Check Point Systems Indren)
Quote arrival (m) : 4559
height difference (m): 1285
Length: 1h 15m (up to Gnifetti Shack) - 3h 35m (from Shack Gnifetti to Capanna Margherita)
Difficulty: F + ( mountaineering)
Exposure: South
departure city: Loc Staffal - Gressoney, Aosta (Aosta Valley)
Participants: I, and Ivana Fiorita
Last year the presentation of the book "It 's called the mountain" I had the opportunity to talk face to face with its author, Walter Nones the formidable climber survived the tragedy on Nanga Parabat in July 2008, and among the many things I said
"... the dreams are a good thing, but sometimes that drawer is opened and dreams are realized ..." Since then this phrase
around my head and this year I finally decided to open my drawer and pull out a dream.
After so many years I want to get my first climb on the 4,000 or more Monte Rosa to the Gnifetti 4.559m (the fourth highest peak of Monte Rosa after Dufour, and Zumstein Nordend) where the Rifugio Capanna Margherita which is the highest refuge in Europe.
order not arrive unprepared for this commitment is so important, I got the commitment from beginning of the year. I started to run constantly, I lost 6lbs. And I have often walked in the mountains at altitudes between 3.000m 2.000mei to get used to the portion that remained for me the only questions about how my body would react to such high fees, it is not true but keep in mind we are talking about 8.000m that altitude sickness can also occur over 3.000m, was not a factor omit.
And finally here we are today.
am 10:30 a wonderful day in late August and have just arrived in Staffal - Gressoney and everything is ready for adventure. With me there will be over at the helm that Stephen will join us later even my friend with her friend Ivana Fiorita of 4,000 that already have the assets 2. Having rented crampons, ice axes and bought a ticket for the cable car eat something before you leave. As plants close and reopen at 12.45 to 14.00 we take advantage to get some 'sunshine and ease the tension before boarding.
At 14.30 we depart for Punta Indren where verso le 16.30 ci incontreremo con la guida Stefano. E’ vero siamo in anticipo ma ne approfitteremo per permanere un po’ di più in quota…sperando che serva.
Alle 15.00 siamo ai 3.275m dell’arrivo degli impianti di Punta Indrem. Abbiamo 1h30’ di tempo prima dell’arrivo della guida e lo passiamo a fotografare il panorama ed a osservare le centinaia di alpinisti che si avvicendano sul ghiacciaio.
C’è chi sale verso i rifugi Mantova e Gnifetti con zaini carichi, oltre che di materiale, di speranze , sogni e aspettative e c’è chi scende con il volto segnato dalla fatica ma con negli occhi la luce di chi ce l’ha fatta. Di chi ha raggiunto la propria meta e torna a casa ritemprato in spirit even if physically exhausted.
are 16.30 and arrived on time Stefano De Luca, our guide will accompany us on these two days of up to 4.559m Rifugio Capanna Margherita.
don the harness that will help us to ensure the most vulnerable stretch of the climb to the hut while Gnifetti ice ax and crampons are rucksack as this stretch and this time the glacier looks like a huge swamp.
therefore proceed on the visible track across the glacier to the left towards the rocky ramparts that the first view from here seems insurmountable ... but it is in fact when we are here is a glimpse at his feet a steep track equipped with fixed ropes to the back.
this stretch to be sure you tie the rope and proceed with caution. Sincerely
is not over 'difficult for many railways that already do this even though we faced with about 12kg. backpack on the shoulders of some uncertainty over the results.
At the end of the slope of the ramparts we find ourselves to be about 50m above the refuge Mantua. In front of us the last tongue of the glacier above the Lys and perched on a rocky ramparts second refuge hut Gnifetti.
The guide believes that we can cross the glacier anche senza ramponi ma utilizziamo comunque la piccozza per sicurezza anche perché si è alzato un forte vento che spazza il ghiacciaio e che a volte rischia di farci cadere.
Seguiamo la traccia sul ghiacciaio fin sotto al rifugio dove parte una breve ma ripida ferrata che ci porta direttamente sulla balconata in legno.
Ci siamo, eccoci ai 3.647m al Rifugio Capanna Gnifetti dove passeremo la notte per acclimatarci prima di salire ai 4.554m del Rifugio Capanna Margherita.
Dalla terrazza la vista è incantevole.
Si vede il Monviso che si erge dalla pianura verso Cuneo, le vette della Valle di Susa con il Rocciamelone e lo Chaberton su tutte, i ghiacciai francesi Des Ecrins, e tutte le vette valdostane. The Gran Paradiso, the Grivola the Ruitor until just capped Mont Blanc in the clouds. I
some photos of the ritual and then removed the boots as "always" is in retreat, we sit in room # 5 assigned to us.
The room is furnished with two bunk beds with mattresses, pillows and double blankets, personal items to store shelves, chair, coat hangers, wire spreading and heating.
We can not ask for more. There are also two long, narrow windows that overlook the roof right in front of "'Tibetan prayer" and the valley of Gressoney. At the end of the room where the roof is pitched it also opens a "niche" or a bed dove si sistema la guida. Mi sembra decisamente angusto e gli propongo di rimanere nella stanza visto che avanza un posto letto ma lui preferisce infilarsi là dentro dove dice di trovarsi meglio ed effettivamente lì può isolarsi dai nostri eventuali russamenti notturni.
Abbiamo tempo fino alle 20.00 per il secondo turno della cena quindi sistemiamo gli zaini per l’indomani, prepariamo il letto per la notte e dopo aver perlustrato il rifugio in lungo ed in largo ci riposiamo un po’ prima di cena.
Alle 20.00 scendiamo al secondo piano per la cena. Al secondo turno c’è decisamente meno gente del primo ma la sala è ancora parzialmente piena di alpinisti che stanno ancora cenando. Siamo in tanti…italiani di ogni regione and many foreigners. There is a wonderful melting-pot of races, languages \u200b\u200band dialects. The dinner was excellent and plentiful and the staff of the shelter is very friendly, affable and professional at the same time. It 's a real pleasure to deal with such people ready to make you feel at home even at a height of 3.600m and without you ever met. That is why we all need to behave civilly plot and having respect for the work they perform ... and this unfortunately is not always the case.
Note on Gnifetti Refuge: Despite many reports that I read before leaving where it was described as the Hen House in Italy, I must say instead I found it very comfortable, quite large compared to this large and with a good kitchen. We only notice that maybe you can do it on a little cold baths and scented water and the problem is not caused because the glacier, but I would like to remind everyone that we are always in a shelter and most importantly to 3.600m!During dinner, then we have a wonderful surprise: among us is nothing less than Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli . World-renowned mountaineer, mountain guide and a great and wonderful person, and after dinner it's the video of his film and valuable advice on mountain safety, rules-based progression on the rope and what should be in a backpack (which seems so trivial but it is not).
I found myself very well. Congratulations to all students of management.
to 22.00 under the covers and I are waiting for a long night to the alarm of 4:00 tomorrow. I find it hard to sleep. I do not know if it's the altitude or the anxiety that takes me every time before an important event, the fact is that I turn and I turn around in without sleeping a wink. At one point the wind rises and the cabin, because more of the wooden hut, even if it has 170 beds, began to creak and move like a galleon in the middle of the storm. Slamming doors and wind that slips between the wooden walls do not help you sleep ... or maybe it's the part that makes me these tricks and maybe I'm sleeping soundly.
At 4:00 the alarm goes off. I'm upset, I did not sleep and now anything you put even a slight nausea and headaches ... is no doubt share. I get up and try to wash my face with a few drops of water taps issue (here, the water is melting glacier at this time and apparently does not dissolve in anything) and the cool morning air already I feel better. A good breakfast and an aspirin and are in place. Place the room, and prepare the backpacks we dress.
Pants mountaineering, first layer then double-pile light and softshell, harness, crampons and ice ax, backpack, hat and head torch and we are already out of the shelter ready to tie the rope. Stefano driving head, and then Ivana Fiorita and I closed the group.
At 5.30 we start. The temperature is about -3 / -4, not cold even though the gusts of wind that sometimes sweeps the glacier are felt. We are among the first rope, and while we are starting on the first section of track behind the hut some strings are already rising on the steep section that rises to the Colle Vincent. I see their front and wonder how are we going to go up there ... seems steep ... then step by step here is that here we are ... I face I see in total darkness and the dim lights of the hut, now much lower, which are disappearing. We cross some crevasses but also very deep snow bridges at this time are still very stable, even if I can where I try to override with a leap.
At 6:30 we are at Colle Vincent. We stopped for a brief stop.
Two glasses of hot tea, take a look at the beautiful landscape and Piramide Vincent, and some photos are already on their way. After a while we pass next to the Christ of the peak where you can see a small camp and go always uphill.
are 7.30 and we are at the Colle Lys. We can turn off the front, the clouds are thinning and between both of them here in the distance appears Cima Gnifetti with Capanna Margherita. E 'far away ... make sure we get there?
Let's pause for a cup of tea and eat warm with a finger and in the meantime we look around us.
There is the north face of the appalling Lyskam sharp and vertical down to Zermatt and there is the unmistakable silhouette of the Matterhorn as the triangular, pointed spire of a cathedral. Here the hill the wind is felt and seen that now we will have a long traverse to the last sheet to the top I wear heavier gloves, cream in her face and glasses for the glare on the snow begins to be felt.
Here the shadow of the summit with the Capanna Margherita Gnifetti that stands on Lyskam.
From here you lose about 150/200 meters in the long traverse towards the tip Gnifetti. On our right we see the tip Parrot with some climbers that are rising, as we pass under the huge crevasses above us like a big palace in the balance.
The traverse is over, now begins to climb again to the left up the hill Gnifetti, we face the top Zunstein and impressive stands above us our destination. The sun rises from the valley of Alagna makes it even better Capanna Margherita clinging with all his strength on the thin top Gnifetti.
We end the last sheet. The pyramid is steep, with two beams will take us to the top. The track is so thin and leave the sticks firmly with the ax head up the track. Step by step, the summit is approaching and the emotions that are unleashed in me is mixed.
I would cry, then I laugh, my breath is shorter but I did not realize.
I would like to run but I can not ... I have to keep up the rope ... then I think, daydream ... ... are at the top are 4.559m.
film with the camera the last few meters of the climb and My voice betrays my feelings.
are at the top.
Stefano congratulates us. She had expected 4.5 / 5 hours while we in 3:35 a.m. 'we are already at the top.
are the 9.05, the sun is high and I am there with him.
Now we enter the refuge also because the place is small and it's coming out of a helicopter which will fetch the equipment scientifically. Backpack and then we take off crampons and eat something. And what if not a better pizza ... well here is the fantastic managers churn out trays of steaming and delicious pizza Margherita pizza ... the highest in Europe ... and maybe even the world.
Taking some usual photos inside and outside the breathtaking balcony overlooking the valley of Alagna in a vacuum.
You see the 'sharp and exposed ridge Signal, a way to climb to Margherita "definitely" more difficult with steps up to the 4th.
While we're on the balcony still get the helicopter carrying the materials because here there is an observatory and a medical center that studies the effects of altitude on the human body.
After nearly an hour we decide to get off the summit. From above we still see many strings that are going up. Some are even still the Colle del Lys.
Now the sun is hot, high and clear skies. As we go we see unforgettable views over the Alps.
At 12.30 we are at Mantova hut where we enjoy a well deserved meal before facing the last 40 'terrible path over a stony Indren up to the ski tip.
Take the cable car and reach the Passo dei Salati. Here we greet Stephen, our trusted guide who accompanied us during these two days and taught us several things. He descends to the valley while we return to Alagna Staffal. Here we are again
Staffal. Just over 24 hours but we have the mind filled with many memories that seems to have been a week.
The many tourists who flock to the ski watching us get off the eggs with backpacks loaded with crampons and ice axes in their eyes and see the same curiosity and envy that I had about three years ago when I came here for the first time after the Ferrata Guides. I watched several climbers with such admiration and envy for the experiences they had lived on those mountains and I was wondering when one day I might be in their shoes.
There are now, it took me 38 years to get my first 4,000 but now I do not want to leave ...
Good mountains at all.
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